Small Space, Big Upgrade: Our DIY Farmhouse Bathroom Renovation
When our farmhouse was built over a century ago, indoor plumbing wasn’t even a concept—let alone modern bathrooms. Like many old homes, ours came with only one full bath upstairs and a tiny half bath tucked off the kitchen. Neither had been updated since the 60s (except for painting it floor to ceiling canary yellow!). As our family grew, it became clear that one tub wasn’t cutting it. So we took on one of our biggest DIY projects yet: converting our old farmhouse’s half bathroom into a fully functional full bath.
This wasn’t just about convenience—it was about honoring the house’s history while making it work for modern life. It also gave us the ability to renovate the upstairs bathroom later on without losing access to a shower in our home. Here’s how we did it, step-by-step.
From this…
to this!
🛠️ Step 1: Make a Plan for Your DIY Farmhouse Bathroom Renovation
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Before swinging a hammer or pulling up tile, we sat down and mapped out the big picture. Our goal? Turn a quirky old half bath into a full-functioning farmhouse-style bathroom—complete with a tub, storage, and updated everything. The space wasn’t tiny, but it had its quirks, so planning was key.
🔍 What We Wanted:
- A full-sized tub/shower combo
- A small vanity with storage
- Linen closet (goodbye laundry chute!)
- Updated plumbing + electrical
- Natural light, but with privacy
💡 DIY Tip: Use painter’s tape on the floor to block out where your tub, vanity, and toilet will go. It really helps you see how things will feel.
What We Did:
We had to work around an old wooden sash window (right where we wanted the shower) and a second doorway into the office. Plus, that old laundry chute was taking up prime real estate. So here’s how we solved it:
- Closed off the second doorway and placed the tub/shower on that wall.
- Removed the old window and replaced it with a moisture-safe vinyl one.
- Converted the laundry chute into a linen closet (since we moved our laundry upstairs anyway).
Planning everything out before demo saved us a ton of second-guessing later on!
🛠️ Step 2: Demo Day – Removing the Old Half Bath
Once the plan was set, it was time to tear things out. Demo in an old house can be kind of a treasure hunt—you never know what you’ll find behind those walls.
🧰 What to Do:
- Turn off water and power (super important for safety).
- Remove the toilet, sink, and any old cabinets or flooring.
- Take down old tile or plaster (carefully—watch for asbestos or lead paint).
- Clean up as you go, and haul debris to the dumpster or dump site.
What We Did:
We saved the toilet for as long as possible for obvious reasons. Replacing the window became a priority since we were up against the approaching winter (more on that later!). We did remove the old vanity, medicine cabinet, some plaster, and flooring. Most of the walls were plaster, but a couple had been redone in drywall at some point. In hindsight, we probably should’ve just demoed everything for a smoother drywall job later, but live and learn!
🚧 The Surprises:
We ran into some knob-and-tube wiring and sketchy plumbing (shocker!). One cool find though: the original plaster had horsehair in it for strength—classic old-home vibes.
🗑️ Pro Tip: Renting a dumpster made cleanup way easier. Totally worth it for a big reno like this.
🛠️ Step 3: Upgrade Plumbing and Electrical Systems in an Old House Bathroom
Once demo was done, it was time to get the bones of the bathroom in place: plumbing and electrical. If your house is older, like ours, this step can make a huge difference in both safety and functionality.
⚠️ Why It Matters:
Old homes often have outdated wiring (like knob-and-tube) and old galvanized pipes that aren’t up to modern code—or standards for daily life. Upgrading your farmhouse bathroom plumbing and wiring now means fewer headaches down the road.
🔌 What We Did for the Electrical:
We felt comfortable tackling this part ourselves, so we:
- Rewired to remove all knob-and-tube wiring
- Installed one GFCI outlet near the vanity (a must in bathrooms)
- Ran wires for:
- Overhead lighting
- Vanity lights
- Exhaust fan (with a switch for everything)
We used 12/2 Romex wire, new boxes, and an AFCI/GFCI breaker, per code. If you’re ever unsure, a licensed electrician is worth the peace of mind.
🚿 What We Did for the Plumbing:
For the plumbing, we called in a pro—mainly because:
- We were relocating the toilet
- Installing a new drain line for the tub
- And needed to vent everything properly
We had an old cast iron vent stack that we had the plumber replace with new PVC pipe. To make the venting work (without tearing apart the second floor), we used a Sure-Vent temporarily and plan to tie into the upstairs plumbing during a future renovation.
Due to space constraints with the floor joists, we also installed an above-floor rough-in tub, which simplified the drain path and avoided cutting into structural elements.
🧰 Materials List: Upgrading Plumbing and Electrical in an Old House Bathroom
🔌 Electrical Supplies
- Romex wire (12/2 or 14/2)
- Plastic or metal boxes
- GFCI outlet(s)
- Standard outlets & switches
- AFCI/GFCI breaker (check your panel brand)
- Lighting fixtures
- Exhaust fan
- Wire nuts, staples, connectors
- Multimeter or voltage tester
- Fish tape, spade bits, and safety gear
🚿 Plumbing Supplies
- PEX (red, blue, or white)
- PEX fittings & crimp/cinch tools
- PVC or ABS for drains/vents
- Shower/tub valve
- Shut-off valves and supply lines
- Teflon tape, pipe insulation
- Drain assemblies and access panel
- Pipe supports, paneling tools, and level
👷 Pro Tip: Even if you’re DIYing, it’s smart to have an electrician and plumber inspect your work before you close up walls. Old houses like to hide surprises.
🪟 Step 4: Replace the Window & Build a Linen Closet
This old bathroom had a classic single-pane sash window right where the shower was going—not ideal for moisture or privacy. We knew we needed something better.
🪟 Window Replacement: What We Did
We carefully removed the old sash window, complete with pulleys and cast iron weights (which I’ve saved for a future upcycling project—maybe shelf brackets or paperweights? TBD).
We replaced it with a double-pane vinyl window—it’s energy-efficient, low-maintenance, and moisture-safe. We added privacy film to the bottom half instead of using frosted glass or curtains. It was super budget-friendly and looks great!
Key steps:
- Removed interior trim and sashes
- Cleaned and inspected the rough opening
- Installed the new window with flashing tape and shims
- Sealed everything with low-expansion spray foam and caulk
- Reinstalled the trim and added privacy film
🧺 Linen Closet: Reclaiming Space from the Old Laundry Chute
Next to the bathroom door was an old laundry chute we weren’t using anymore (our laundry room is now upstairs). It was the perfect spot for a built-in linen closet—especially in a bathroom where every inch counts.
Here’s how we did it:
- Cut an opening in the chute wall to fit a small door (we used a five-panel one from our local lumberyard).
- Removed the plaster inside the chute and cleaned everything up.
- Covered the walls with wood paneling and added a drywall ceiling.
- Installed shelves, cut from 1x12s, stained and sealed.
- Mounted the shelves using simple cleats.
- Installed the door with basic framing and hardware.
🧠 DIY Tip: Use shallow shelves (10–12″) so things don’t get lost in the back. We spaced ours for towels, extra toilet paper, and cleaning supplies.
🪟 Window Replacement Material List
- New Vinyl Window
- Double-pane, energy-efficient, vinyl-framed
- Sized to fit your existing rough opening
- Window Installation Supplies
- Flashing tape (for waterproofing around the flange)
- Exterior-grade shims
- Low-expansion spray foam (for sealing around the frame)
- Exterior/interior caulk (paintable and mildew-resistant)
- Utility knife or oscillating saw (for removing old trim)
- Pry bar and hammer
- Screwdriver or drill (for securing window screws)
- Level and tape measure
- Trim and Finishing
- Interior window trim (if reusing, you may need wood filler and paint)
- Privacy window film (frosted or decorative style)
- Application tools for film (squeegee, spray bottle with soapy water)
🧺 Linen Closet Conversion Material List
- Framing and Construction
- 2x4s or 1x4s (for framing around the new door opening)
- Five-panel door (small size to fit your opening)
- Door hardware (hinges, knob or latch)
- Interior Finishing
- Wood paneling (for lining the inside walls)
- Drywall (for the closet ceiling)
- Drywall screws or nails
- Joint compound, tape, and sanding materials (if needed)
- Shelving
- 1×12 lumber (cut to size for custom shelves)
- Wood stain and polyurethane or sealer
- Shelf cleats (1×2 or scrap wood for mounting shelves)
- Finish nails or screws (for attaching cleats)
- Tools
- Circular saw or miter saw (for cutting lumber)
- Stud finder (for shelf cleat placement)
- Level and measuring tape
- Nail gun or hammer
- Stain brush or cloth
🧱 Step 5: Install Tub, Insulation, Drywall, Vanity & Doors
Once your plumbing and electrical are in, it finally feels like you’re building a bathroom—not just tearing one apart. This is the point in the remodel where things start coming together. You’re past the utilities, and now it’s time to add the major interior components that make the space feel like a bathroom again.
🧤 Insulate the Walls: 3 Key Steps
- Select Your Insulation
We used faced fiberglass batts, but rock wool is another solid choice, especially for soundproofing around the tub and exterior walls. - Cut and Fit
Measure each stud bay and cut insulation to fit snugly. Avoid compressing the batts—this reduces their insulating power. - Staple in Place
Staple the flanges of the faced insulation to the studs. Make sure the vapor barrier faces the warm side of the wall (the inside of the room).
🛁 Tub Installation: 6 Easy Steps
- Choose and Prep Your Tub
We selected a standard acrylic alcove tub—lightweight, affordable, and easy to install. Unbox and inspect it for damage before starting. - Dry-Fit the Tub
Set the tub in place to check the fit. Use a level and shims as needed to ensure it’s sitting evenly on the floor. - Install the Drain and Overflow
Attach the drain and overflow assembly according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make sure all connections are snug and well-sealed. - Add Mortar Base (If Required)
Some tubs require a mortar bed underneath for extra support. If yours does, mix and spread the mortar, then carefully lower the tub into place. - Secure the Tub
Once level and properly positioned, screw or nail the tub flange to the wall studs. This keeps the tub locked in and stable. - Seal and Test for Leaks
Apply silicone around the edges and any exposed joints. Before you move on, run water and check all plumbing for leaks—fix anything now while it’s still accessible.
💡 Tip: Take your time to seal any gaps. Proper insulation makes a big difference in energy efficiency and moisture control.
🧱 Hang and Finish Drywall: 5 Basic Steps
- Use Moisture-Resistant Drywall
In a bathroom, always use green board or purple board to prevent mold and mildew in high-humidity areas. - Hang the Sheets
Patch any existing drywall you may need to. Secure drywall to the wall studs with screws. Cut around fixtures and openings as needed. - Tape the Seams
Use drywall joint tape to cover the seams and corners, pressing it into the joint compound for a smooth base. - Apply Joint Compound
Spread thin layers of compound over the tape and screw holes. Let each coat dry before applying the next. - Sand Smooth
Sand between coats for a seamless finish. Be prepared—it’s messy and tedious. We were new to this and found it way harder than it looks on YouTube!
😅 Let’s just say our finish was… not pro-grade. But good enough once painted!
🚽 Install the Vanity: 4 Quick Steps
- Position and Level the Vanity
Set your vanity cabinet in place. Use a level and shims to make sure it sits flat and even. - Secure to Wall
Screw the vanity into wall studs to keep it solid and prevent shifting. - Hook Up the Plumbing
Connect the faucet, drain, P-trap, and water supply lines. Check for leaks. - Seal the Edges
Apply silicone caulk where the vanity meets the wall and backsplash for a clean, water-tight seal.
🛠️ DIY Tip: Test all connections before closing up—water finds any weakness fast!
🚪 Hang the Interior Door: 5 Final Steps
- Add Trim and Touch Ups
Nail up interior casing and baseboards. Fill nail holes with wood filler and caulk any gaps before painting or staining. - Choose Your Door
We used a 5-panel prehung door to match our farmhouse trim. Prehung doors save time and ensure a square fit. - Shim and Level
Place the door in the rough opening. Use shims to make sure it’s plumb and level on all sides. - Attach the Frame
Screw the frame through the shims into the framing studs. Check that the door opens and latches smoothly. - Install Hardware
Attach the hinges, knob, latch, and strike plate. Make sure everything lines up and works cleanly.
📝 What We Did:
This was the step where things finally felt like they were coming together.
- We installed a standard acrylic tub with a simple surround.
- Packed moisture-resistant insulation into the exterior walls.
- Hung drywall (and learned the hard way that finishing drywall takes patience).
- Installed a small vanity with a bit of farmhouse charm.
- Hung a 5-panel door that ties in nicely with our doors elsewhere in the house.
🙃 Drywall was the hardest part. I figured it would be simple, but it’s deceptively tricky. Between taping, mudding, sanding, and re-sanding, it took forever. The joint compound splattered everywhere, the sanding dust got into everything, and it quickly became my least favorite part of the project. But… we did it!
The bathroom was now functional, the finish line in sight.
🧰 Material Checklist: Tub, Insulation, Drywall, Vanity, and Doors
🛁 Tub Installation
- Acrylic or cast iron tub (alcove/freestanding/drop-in)
- Drain & overflow kit
- Mortar mix (if needed for tub base)
- Tub flange screws/nails
- Silicone sealant
- Shims and level
🧱 Insulation
- Faced fiberglass batts or rock wool
- Utility knife
- Staple gun & staples
- Gloves, goggles, and dust mask
🧱 Drywall
- Moisture-resistant drywall (green/purple board)
- Drywall screws
- Joint tape & compound
- Drywall knives (6″, 10″, 12″)
- Corner bead
- Sanding block or drywall sander
- Mold-resistant primer
🚽 Vanity Install
- Vanity cabinet and top
- Faucet and drain assembly
- Water lines & P-trap
- Shims and screws
- Plumber’s putty or silicone
- Caulk (paintable for trim areas)
🚪 Doors & Trim
- Prehung or slab interior door
- Hinges & knob/latch kit
- Door shims
- Interior casing/baseboard trim
- Finish nails or trim screws
- Wood filler, caulk, and paint/stain
Step 6: Paint the Walls and Install Trim
You can paint the walls before installing the lights and vanity, which is what we did, simply because then you don’t have to worry about painting around everything (and because I couldn’t wait to cover up that yellow paint). There is tons of information out there on how to paint and install trim, so I will spare you of it here. Make sure you don’t skip the primer, especially on new drywall. I will include a list of materials you may need.
🎨 Materials for Painting Bathroom Walls
- Mold- and mildew-resistant paint (usually satin or semi-gloss finish for bathrooms)
- Primer (especially if drywall is new or patched)
- Painter’s tape (for clean lines around trim, ceiling, and fixtures)
- Drop cloths or plastic sheeting (to protect floors and fixtures)
- Paint rollers (3/8” nap is good for smooth walls)
- Paint tray and liners
- Angled paintbrush (2″–2.5″ for cutting in edges)
- Paint roller covers
- Extension pole (optional, for ceilings or high walls)
- Sanding sponge or fine-grit sandpaper (to smooth patches or rough spots)
- Caulk (paintable latex caulk to seal gaps before painting)
- Rags or paper towels (for cleanup)
🪚 Materials for Installing Trim (Baseboards, Casing, etc.)
- Trim boards (baseboards, door casing, window trim—typically MDF or PVC for bathrooms)
- Wood glue or construction adhesive (optional, for extra hold)
- Finish nails or brad nails
- Nail set (to sink nail heads below the surface if using a hammer)
- Caulk (paintable, to fill gaps and seams)
- Wood filler or spackle (to cover nail holes)
- Sandpaper (medium to fine grit for smoothing filler)
- Paint or primer for trim (if not pre-finished)
- Touch-up brush or small roller (for painting trim)
- Miter saw or miter box and handsaw (for cutting angles)
- Tape measure
- Level
- Pencil (for marking cuts and positions)
What We Did:
We chose a soft neutral tone for the walls (Valspar White Pepper) to reflect light and keep things airy. New wooden trim was painted white and installed. We chose to go with white for the doors and trim, rather than try to match the rest of the trim in the house. It’s amazing how much a fresh coat of paint makes you feel like you’re finally on your way to a new bathroom!
Step 7: Install Flooring and Tile the Shower
🔨 Flooring:
We went with click-lock vinyl plank flooring that’s 100% waterproof—perfect for high-moisture areas like bathrooms. We also had to level the floor with some plywood, as it appears the room had been expanded at one point. Here’s the quick breakdown:
How To:
- Prep the subfloor. Make sure it’s clean, dry, and level. Remove any old flooring or staples.
- Plan your layout. Start along the longest wall or the one you see first when you walk in.
- Install the planks. Click them together and use spacers around the edges to leave a little expansion gap. Use a rubber mallet to lock them in place.
- Cut as needed. Use a sharp utility knife to score and snap planks to size.
- Seal the edges. Use waterproof silicone caulk around the tub, toilet, and vanity to keep water out.
What You’ll Need:
- Vinyl planks (we used a marble-look style)
- Utility knife
- Spacers
- Rubber mallet
- Tape measure and pencil
- Underlayment (if required by your flooring type)
- Silicone caulk (for edges near tub/toilet)
💡 Pro tip: Work from multiple boxes of planks to vary the pattern and avoid color repeats.
🧱 Subway Tile in a Shower
Subway tile might look simple, but installing it takes a little planning—especially around corners and fixtures.
How To:
- Prep the walls. Use cement board and waterproofing membrane (we used RedGard).
- Plan your layout. Find your center line and dry-fit a few tiles to see how cuts will land.
- Apply thin-set. Use your notched trowel to spread mortar in small sections.
- Start tiling. Work your way up from the bottom row using spacers to keep everything even.
- Cut tiles as needed. Around faucets, corners, or windows—this part takes some time.
- Grout and finish. Once everything’s dry, apply grout, clean off the haze, and seal if needed. Use caulk in corners and around the tub.
What We Did:
We installed classic gray subway tile with Mapei Warm Gray grout for a timeless, clean look. Some corner shelves gave us extra storage for shampoo and soap without cluttering the tub.
What You’ll Need:
- Subway tiles (we used 3″x6″ glass gray)
- Tile spacers (1/16” or 1/8” depending on your look)
- Thin-set mortar
- Notched trowel
- Tile cutter or wet saw
- Grout (Mapei Warm Gray)
- Grout float
- Caulk (color-matched, flexible for corners)
- Tile sealer (if using unglazed or porous tiles)
🚽 Step 8: Install the Toilet
Installing a new toilet sounds intimidating, but it’s actually one of the more straightforward parts of a bathroom renovation. With the flooring and tile in, it’s time to get the toilet back in place so you can, you know… use your bathroom again.
How To:
- Set the wax ring. Place a new wax ring onto the flange (or bottom of the toilet if preferred). Make sure it’s centered.
- Position the toilet. Lower the toilet bowl straight down over the flange bolts. Press firmly to compress the wax seal.
- Tighten the bolts. Add washers and nuts to the bolts and tighten them evenly. Don’t overtighten—you can crack the porcelain.
- Install the tank. If it’s a two-piece toilet, attach the tank to the bowl using the provided gasket and bolts.
- Connect the water line. Attach the supply line to the fill valve and the shut-off valve. Tighten it snugly (hand-tight, then a quarter-turn with a wrench).
- Test for leaks. Turn the water on slowly and let the tank fill. Flush and check around the base and connections.
- Seal the base. Optionally, run a bead of silicone caulk around the bottom of the toilet for a clean finish.
What You’ll Need:
- Toilet (bowl and tank or one-piece)
- Wax ring (or wax-free seal)
- Closet bolts and bolt caps
- Toilet flange (already installed or replaced if needed)
- Adjustable wrench
- Level
- Water supply line (new if old one is corroded or too short)
- Utility knife or hacksaw (to trim bolts if needed)
- Towels and bucket (for cleanup)
- Silicone caulk (optional, for sealing base)
💡 Pro tip: Sit on the toilet (lid down!) after placing it to help compress the wax ring and ensure a good seal before tightening the bolts fully.
What We Did:
We installed a standard-height dual-flush toilet for water savings and a cleaner look. Caulking around the base gave it a nice, finished look.
Step 9: Finishing Touches – Fixtures, Caulk, and Window Treatments
Now that all the big stuff is done, it’s time for the details. Installing fixtures, sealing everything up with caulk, and adding window treatments may seem like small steps, but they make a huge difference in how finished (and functional) your bathroom feels.
How To:
- Install towel bars, hooks & TP holder. Measure carefully and use a level to avoid wonky lines. Use wall anchors if you’re not drilling into a stud.
- Hang the mirror. If you’re using a heavy mirror or medicine cabinet, be sure to hit at least one stud or use heavy-duty wall anchors.
- Mount light fixtures. Install above the mirror or on either side, depending on your setup. Always double-check power is off at the breaker!
- Caulk everything. Run a smooth bead of silicone caulk where tile meets the tub, around the base of the toilet (if you didn’t already), and anywhere water might sneak in. Use painter’s tape for sharp lines, then smooth with your finger or a caulk tool.
- Add window treatments. Pick moisture-friendly blinds, shades, or curtains. We like cordless cellular shades or vinyl faux-wood blinds—they’re easy to clean and won’t warp in humidity.
💡 Pro tip: Warm your caulk tube slightly in a cup of warm water before using—it flows smoother and is easier to control.
What We Did:
We went with a simple brushed nickel fixture set to match the faucet and showerhead. We found a towel bar with two hooks built in to save space. An above toilet cabinet matching the vanity made for some extra storage. The caulking? Let’s just say painter’s tape was our best friend for clean, pro-looking lines.
What You’ll Need:
- Towel bars or hooks
- Toilet paper holder
- Light fixtures or sconces
- Bathroom mirror (or medicine cabinet)
- Silicone caulk (mold- and mildew-resistant)
- Caulk gun
- Painter’s tape (optional, for crisp caulk lines)
- Window shade, blinds, or curtains (moisture-resistant)
- Wall anchors and screws
- Drill/driver
- Level
- Measuring tape
- Screwdriver
🪴 Step 10: Decorate: The Last Step in Your DIY Farmhouse Bathroom Renovation
Now for the fun part—decorating! After all the demo, tiling, and caulking, this is where your personality shines through. Whether you lean rustic, modern farmhouse, or somewhere in between, this step brings warmth and charm to your freshly renovated space.
How To:
- Add storage with style. Open shelving in stained or distressed wood adds charm and function—use baskets or jars for rolled towels and toiletries.
- Hang artwork or signs. Think: “Wash & Dry,” botanical prints, or vintage-inspired pieces in simple frames.
- Bring in texture. Mix materials like metal, wood, and soft textiles to create a layered, cozy look.
- Use plants. A little greenery (especially eucalyptus or a snake plant) instantly makes the space feel fresh and lived-in.
- Coordinate your colors. Stick to a neutral palette with pops of black, soft greens, or muted blues for that clean, classic farmhouse feel.
- Finish with small touches. A wooden stool next to the tub or a hanging wall rack adds charm without cluttering things up.
💡 Pro tip: Less is more—stick to a few key pieces that match your color scheme and mix in natural textures to keep things feeling balanced and cozy.
What We Did:
With this being the main bathroom for the 6 of us for the near future, we wanted the space to be uncluttered and practical. We opted to frame some photos I had taken around the homestead and a fun pig sign to adorn the walls. The paint we chose had some slight purple undertones so we went with a purple bath mat and purple floral shower curtain. Neutral gray towels completed the space. The whole space feels calm, clean, and totally “us.”
What You’ll Need (or Want):
- Rustic or reclaimed wood shelves
- Wire or wicker baskets
- Framed farmhouse-style art or signs
- Neutral-toned or patterned bath towels
- Shower Curtain
- Greenery (real or faux plants work great)
- Soap dispensers, jars, or glass containers
- Wooden or black metal accents (mirrors, hooks, frames)
- Cozy bath mat or runner (look for vintage-style prints)
- Candles or diffusers (for spa vibes)
- Small stool or decorative ladder (if you have the space)
Final Thoughts: Blending Old Bones with New Life
Renovating a bathroom in an old farmhouse isn’t just about adding convenience—it’s about thoughtfully preserving character while updating what matters. Converting our half bath into a full one gave our family the extra space we desperately needed, and we’re proud we did it ourselves.
Thinking about tackling your own DIY farmhouse bathroom renovation? Don’t wait. Make a plan, get your hands dirty, and bring your old home new life.
This DIY farmhouse bathroom renovation didn’t just add charm—it completely changed the way we use our home. Turning the underutilized half bath into a full bathroom gave our growing family the flexibility we needed and made this corner of the house infinitely more functional. Even better, it allowed us to move forward with renovating our main upstairs bathroom later—without the stress of being without a shower during the process.
If you’re dreaming about a similar upgrade in your own old home, take the leap. The work is worth it, and the payoff is a space that serves your family today, tomorrow, and for generations to come.
Check out our final before-and-afters below!
