Fabric, Fossils, and Fashion: My Guide to Overdyeing with Rit Dye
Have a dress you love but not the color? Overdyeing with Rit Dye is an easy, affordable way to customize your wardrobe!
In this post, I’ll share how I dyed my ginkgo print dress from white to blue—plus, I’ll walk you through the exact steps so you can overdye your own clothes at home.
Why a Ginkgo Dress?
Ever since I was a kid, I’ve been enchanted by ginkgo trees. My childhood neighbor had one in her yard, and I remember spending hours admiring the fan-shaped leaves. There was just something magical about that tree.
Later in life, I learned that ginkgo trees are considered living fossils. They’ve survived for over 200 million years—outliving dinosaurs and ice ages! In fact, the ginkgo is the only living link between ferns and conifers. For a science and history nerd like me, that makes the ginkgo even more special.
So when my favorite dressmaker, Svaha, released a ginkgo print dress, I had to have it.
There was just one problem: it only came in white.
And as a pasty redhead, I know better than to wear pure white—it washes me out every time. But I wasn’t about to let that stop me from wearing a dress covered in ginkgo leaves! I decided to order it and overdye it instead.
What Is Overdyeing?
Overdyeing is the process of dyeing a garment that already has color or a print. In this case, I took my white dress (with rainbow printed ginkgo leaves) and dyed it a fun, blue color that worked better for my skin tone.
The best part? The rainbow leaves are still rainbow, while the white fabric soaked up the new dye color. It turned out beautifully!
Supplies You’ll Need
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Here’s what you need to overdye your own dress using Rit Dye:
- Rit Dye (liquid or powder) – choose your color
- I used aquamarine and evening blue
- 5-gallon bucket or large plastic container
- Boiling water
- Salt (1 cup for cotton fabrics)
- Dishwashing detergent (just a squirt—this helps the dye distribute evenly)
- Old clothes (this process can get messy!)
- Gloves
- Stir stick or large spoon
How to Overdye a Dress with Rit Dye
Follow these simple steps to transform your dress at home:
1. Wash the Dress
Start by washing your dress to remove any residues that might block the dye. Do not dry it—keep it damp.
2. Boil Water
Heat a large pot of water until boiling. Rit Dye works best in very hot water, especially for cotton fabrics.
3. Prepare the Dye Bath
In your 5-gallon bucket, combine:
- The boiling water
- Your Rit Dye (follow the package instructions for amounts; I usually use one bottle for a single dress)
- 1 cup salt (this helps the dye adhere to cotton)
- A squirt of dishwashing detergent (this helps prevent streaks)
When choosing a color, you’ll want to take into account how the dye with dye over colors already on the fabric. Since I had lots of different colors of leaves on the dress, I chose a blue color that wouldn’t completely change any of the original colors.
Rit has this fancy tool on their website that allows you to choose the exact color you want and it will tell you which color dyes you need to make it. I used the recipe for the color “Bird Bath”.
4. Add the Dress
Place your damp dress into the dye bath. Use your stick or spoon to push it under the water and stir gently.
5. Stir Occasionally
For the most even color, stir the dress in the dye bath every few minutes. The longer you leave it, the deeper the color will become.
I left mine in for about an hour to get a soft, blue shade that still showed off the ginkgo print.
6. Rinse Thoroughly
Remove the dress from the dye bath and rinse it under cold water until the water runs clear.
7. Wash and Dry
Wash the dress separately in warm water with a gentle detergent, then dry as usual.
The Final Result
I couldn’t be happier with how my overdyed ginkgo dress turned out! The dye took beautifully, the rainbow ginkgo leaves mostly stayed their original color, if not a little muted, and now I have a one-of-a-kind piece that fits both my style and my skin tone.
Tips for Overdyeing Clothes
- Test first: If you’re unsure about the color, test it on a scrap of fabric or an inconspicuous area first. I would also advise to go lighter first if you’re unsure. You can always dye it again to make it darker!
- Natural fibers work best: Cotton, linen, rayon, and silk take dye well. Polyester blends may not.
- Don’t skip the detergent: This little trick helps prevent splotches and ensures even dye coverage.
- Protect your workspace: Dye can stain, so cover counters and floors with old towels or plastic, or do it outside.
Why Try Overdyeing?
Overdyeing is a fun way to:
- Give new life to old clothes
- Customize your wardrobe
- Save money and reduce waste
If you’ve ever found a dress you love—but not the color—this is the perfect solution.
Final Thoughts
If you’re like me and have a soft spot for science-inspired fashion, don’t be afraid to get creative with fabric dye! Whether it’s a ginkgo dress, a printed tee, or a faded skirt, overdyeing is an easy way to make your clothes work for you.
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